Hours vary Portland (207) 544-3126
Woodhouse Builders LLC
Flooring Installation: Hardwood, Tile, and More

Portland Local

Flooring Installation: Hardwood, Tile, and More

Woodhouse Builders installs flooring that stays level, stays tight, and handles whatever a Maine winter throws at it.

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Flooring That Holds Up to Real Use

Flooring installation looks straightforward until the subfloor isn't flat, the old adhesive won't release, or the first course runs out of square and every row after it drifts. The cost of getting it wrong doesn't show up on day one, it shows up eighteen months later when boards start cupping or grout lines crack. Woodhouse Builders LLC handles the full scope: subfloor prep, material selection guidance, and a finished install that won't embarrass itself two winters from now. Call (207) 544-3126 to talk through your project.

What drives flooring cost up or down is almost never the material itself. It's the condition of what's underneath it. A basement remodeling project with a concrete slab that needs leveling compound adds labor and material before a single plank goes down. An old home with board subfloor that has bounce or soft spots needs sistering or sheathing before hardwood can go over it. Tile over an unsupported subfloor will crack at the grout lines inside a year. That's not a tile problem, it's a deflection problem, and fixing it after the fact costs more than doing it right the first time. Every job is different, contact Woodhouse Builders LLC for an accurate estimate.

Why Subfloor Prep Determines Everything

The install is only as good as the surface it goes down on.

Most flooring failures we see trace back to the same place: nobody dealt with the subfloor before the finish material went in. Hardwood needs a substrate that's within 3/16" of flat over 10 feet. Most older homes don't meet that spec without work. Tile needs a deflection ratio of L/360 or better or the grout cracks in the first heating season. Luxury vinyl plank is more forgiving, but it telegraphs every high spot and fastener head underneath it if the prep isn't done. Before Woodhouse Builders puts down any finish flooring, we assess the subfloor, address soft spots, and confirm the deck is flat enough for whatever material is going over it. That step is what separates a floor that lasts from one that doesn't.
hardwood flooring work, professional service in Portland, ME

Material Options

Hardwood, Tile, and Plank: What Each One Requires

01

Hardwood Flooring

Site-finished hardwood is the most labor-intensive option but the most durable long-term. It requires acclimation time in the space before install, a subfloor that won't flex, and a nailer or stapler pattern that holds without squeaking. We sand and finish on-site when a seamless result matters.

02

Tile and Stone

Ceramic, porcelain, and natural stone each have different weight and absorption characteristics that change how they're set. Large-format tile needs back-buttering and a flat substrate, skip either and you get lippage that catches every toe in the house. Our tile installation work follows the same standard on floors as it does on walls.

03

Luxury Vinyl Plank

LVP is the right call in bathrooms, basements, and high-traffic areas where hardwood would absorb moisture. It's not a DIY shortcut, a poorly planned layout or a skipped underlayment turns a tough product into one that bounces and separates at the seams within a season.

04

Engineered Wood

Engineered flooring handles humidity swings better than solid hardwood, which makes it well-suited for Maine homes where seasonal moisture variation is real. It can go over radiant heat where solid wood can't, and it floats or glues depending on the substrate. The right choice depends on what's below it.

Our Process

How a Flooring Install Actually Goes

From assessment to final pass with the finish coat. Here's the sequence we follow on every flooring job.

  1. 01

    Subfloor Assessment and Prep

    We pull up the existing material, check for moisture, test for flatness, and address anything that would cause the finish floor to fail. Soft spots get sistered or patched. High spots get planed or ground. The subfloor has to be right before anything else happens.

  2. 02

    Layout and Installation

    We establish a layout line referenced to the longest wall in the room, confirm it's square, and work outward from there. The first course sets the pattern for every course that follows, getting it right means the last row at the far wall lands where it should.

  3. 03

    Finishing and Cleanup

    Depending on material: hardwood gets sanded and finished on-site, tile gets grouted and sealed, plank gets transitions and molding fitted. We clean up before we leave and walk the floor with you to confirm it's right.

Flooring as Part of a Larger Renovation

Flooring rarely happens in isolation. A kitchen remodeling project almost always ends with new flooring because the old stuff doesn't match the new cabinet footprint or it's been damaged by the demo. A full home remodeling project in an older home often means pulling everything down to the subfloor anyway, which is actually the right time to deal with any unevenness or rot that's been hidden for decades. We coordinate the flooring phase with the rest of the project so the sequencing is right, flooring goes in after the walls are closed but before base molding, which means it needs to be scheduled in the right window, not wedged in at the end when there's no room to work. If you're managing a bigger renovation, we can scope the flooring as part of that conversation. Reach out to discuss the full project scope.
Home renovations

Flooring Cost: What Drives the Number

  1. 01

    Subfloor Condition

    This is the biggest variable and the hardest to predict before demo. A subfloor that needs leveling, patching, or replacement adds material and labor before the finish product touches the ground.

  2. 02

    Material Selection

    Site-finished hardwood costs more than engineered, which costs more than LVP, which costs more than basic laminate. The spread across those categories is significant, and the right choice depends on the room, not just the budget.

  3. 03

    Room Geometry and Access

    Straight rectangular rooms are the cheapest to floor. Rooms with angles, alcoves, hearths, or complex thresholds require more cuts, more waste, and more time. Stairs add cost per tread and riser.

  4. 04

    Existing Material Removal

    Pulling carpet is fast. Removing old tile with adhesive is not. If there's multiple layers of old flooring stacked up over the decades, that demo time adds to the job.

Flooring Questions Worth Asking

How much does it cost to install 1,000 square feet of flooring?
There's no single answer because the material and subfloor condition control the number more than the square footage does. A 1,000 sq ft install of site-finished hardwood over a subfloor that needs work is a very different job than 1,000 sq ft of LVP over a flat slab. Every job is different, contact Woodhouse Builders LLC for an accurate estimate based on your actual space.
Do I need to remove old flooring before new flooring goes down?
Usually yes, though it depends on the material and the height tolerances in the room. Installing over existing flooring stacks up the floor height, which creates transition problems at doors and adjacent rooms. It also hides whatever condition problems exist underneath. We generally recommend going down to the subfloor so we know exactly what we're working with.
Can hardwood go in a bathroom or basement?
Solid hardwood shouldn't. It swells with moisture and will cup or buckle. In a bathroom, tile or LVP is the right call. In a basement, engineered hardwood rated for below-grade installation can work if the moisture situation is controlled, but we'd want to assess the slab first. We won't install a product in a situation where it's likely to fail.
How long does acclimation take for hardwood flooring?
Solid hardwood typically needs three to seven days in the space where it's being installed, depending on the product and the conditions. Engineered flooring is usually less sensitive but still benefits from 48 hours on-site. Skipping acclimation in a Maine home with real seasonal humidity swings is a reliable way to end up with gaps in winter or buckling in summer.
What's the right flooring choice for a home with radiant heat?
Solid hardwood and radiant heat don't mix well. The heat cycles cause movement that solid wood can't handle. Engineered hardwood rated for radiant applications is a better fit, and some LVP products are designed for it as well. Tile is the most compatible option since it conducts heat effectively and doesn't expand or contract with temperature changes the way wood does.
How do I know if my subfloor needs replacing versus just leveling?
Soft spots that flex underfoot, visible rot, or areas where fasteners have pulled through are signs that replacement is the right call. General unevenness or crowning without structural damage can usually be addressed with a floor grinder and leveling compound. We assess this during demo. There's no way to know for certain until the old material is off.
Can hardwood flooring be installed in a bathroom or basement?
Solid hardwood is not a good fit for either, moisture causes cupping and buckling. In bathrooms, tile or LVP handles the conditions better. In basements, engineered hardwood rated for below-grade use can work if the slab moisture situation is under control. We won't spec a material into a location where it's likely to fail within a few years.
How long does hardwood flooring need to acclimate before installation?
Solid hardwood typically needs three to seven days in the installation space. Engineered flooring is less sensitive but still benefits from 48 hours on-site. Maine homes see real seasonal humidity swings, and skipping acclimation is a reliable way to end up with gaps in January or raised boards in July.
What flooring works best with radiant heat?
Tile is the most compatible option since it conducts heat and doesn't move with temperature changes. Engineered hardwood rated for radiant applications is a solid second choice. Solid hardwood and most laminates aren't suitable. The heat cycling creates movement the product can't absorb without gapping or cupping over time.
How do I know if my subfloor needs replacing or just leveling?
Soft spots that flex when you walk on them, visible rot, or fasteners that have pulled through the sheathing indicate replacement. General unevenness or crowning without structural damage can usually be corrected with grinding and leveling compound. There's no definitive answer until the old finish material is removed and we can see what's actually there.

Get a Straight Answer on Your Flooring Project

Scotty Woodhouse picks up. Tell us what you've got and we'll tell you what it takes.

Call now (207) 544-3126

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